Ich wollte so langsam anfangen die Decken mit Gipskartonplatten zu beplanken und dazu muss erst einmal die Sparschalung an die Decken.
Nass…
Das ist soweit auch kein Problem aber wir haben ein paar Wochen vorher noch ein bisschen Erde vom Nachbar bekommen. Da waren vorher die in Folie verpackten Latten gelagert. Diese mussten dann recht zügig da weg. Durch Faulheit und Blödheit wurden die jedoch nicht wieder in Folie verpackt und so wurden die Latten alle schön nass. Durch die niedrigen Temperaturen (wir haben Mitte November!) waren einige schon zusammengefroren.
So konnten die nicht verarbeitet werden! Das stand fest. Also habe ich die alle rein ins Haus geholt und Lagenweise gestapelt. Immer mit viel Luft dazwischen damit die gut trocknen können. Dafür ging bestimmt ein ganzer Vormittag drauf.
Wenn ich dann die nächsten Tage im Haus war um zu arbeiten habe ich immer einen kleinen Heizlüfter auf die Latten gerichtet um das Trocknen zu beschleunigen. Die Feuchtigkeit habe ich mit einem Holzfeuchtemessgerät* immer wieder kontrolliert. Nach gut einer Woche waren die obersten 2 bis 3 Lagen je 6 Bretter trocken.
In der Zeit gab es genug andere Dinge zu tun aber klar ist auch das ich mir das gerne erspart hätte. Dazu hätten die Bretter nach dem Umsetzen einfach wieder in Folie eingeschlagen werden müssen.
Trocken…
Nachdem alle Bretter wirklich trocken waren ging es also daran die Sparschalung anzubringen. In welchen Abständen die Sparschalungsbretter anzubringen sind hängt von der größe der Gipskartonplatten (Rigipsplatten) ab. Wichtig ist dabei das man die Latten wirklich gerade anbringt! Vor allem an den Plattenstößen ist das wichtig. Die Latten sind ca 7 cm breit und wenn man exakt arbeitet hat man also 3,5 cm Platz für jede Platte um den Stoß zu verschrauben. Es ist also unumgänglich das man hin und wieder die Richtlatte* anhält um die Sparschalung korrekt auszurichten.
Wenn man die Sparschalung verschraubt sollte man die Schrauben ruhig so weit ins Holz treiben bis der Bit* ebenfalls im Holz verschwindet. Das hat den Hintergrund das dass Holz so fest gegen den Balken gedrückt wird das die Dampfsperre immernoch dicht ist.
Die Schrauben die man dazu von Massa geliefert bekommt sind übrigens mit einem Torx 20 Antrieb ausgestattet. Ich hab mir dazu eine Box mit Bits* gekauft und die haben mir während des Baus gute Dienste geleistet.
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